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Proper fitment is only possible with proper mounting, no matter how well the body work fits.
Step 1: Meet the upper and lower fairings perfectly
- a) Drill the outside fairing (Lower or Upper) to accommodate the fastener you are using. We recommend using a step bit. Make sure you drill the holes where they will be met by enough material on the inside fairing. We recommend anywhere from 1/3 to ˝ inches from the top of the edge.
- b) Make sure your lower and upper are met perfectly and mark where the holes will be on the inside fairing with a marker, going through the holes you already drilled on the outside fairing.
- c) Repeat for the other side.
- d) Now that you have drilled your holes and installed your fasteners on the upper and lower fairings, it is time to test fit them together. Mount them OFF the bike.
Step 2: Making sure everything will line up
- a) Put the upper on your bike loosely, meaning do not drill anything.
- b) Fasten the lower to the upper, now you have both fairings working in unison but not attached to the bike. If your application has side mounts for your upper to attach to the frame drill those. Now your upper and lower will pivot from those points.
- c) See how the bodywork lines up with your faring stay and mounting spots. It should line up perfectly, but it might not, these steps will make sure everything fits PERFECTLY.
- d) Check the clearance between the lower and your front tire and between the upper and your clip-ons. Your riding style might require moving the mounting points a hair. If perfect fitting requires a little tug at first do not worry, the materials we use will form to what you need once the are heated from your bike’s motor.
- e) Drill the pre-designated hole(s) on the top of your tail fairing and fasten it to your sub- frame. Work the rest afterwards.
Step 3: The Final Touches
- a) Install the rest of the fairings and ride safe!
- Notes: Take your time, have a friend help you, use step bits.
Disclaimer: Following these directions will ensure a good fit under any circumstances. If it is evident these directions were not followed, FBW will not be responsible for issues related to bodywork rub or fit.
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Important facts to know about body work
Bodywork is essential to a race bike for two different reasons:
1) Aerodynamics
Thankfully the factories invest a lot of time and money designing the bodywork so as to have the least air friction as possible. We at FACTORYBODYWORKS try and replicate the stock design as much as possible, but also alter it in the case that a race application might need more convenience in order to give you the beast advantage possible. For example, some of our sets have redesign lowers for easier removal; scratching lowers is a popular nightmare with some manufacturers when taking them off in a hurry. We eliminate that problem.
2) Fluid containment
As you know, lowers are also called belly pans. The reason behind that is because in the event of your radiator or motor leaking, the lower or belly-pan is there to make sure you don't spill fluids on the track and injure yourself and/or others.
What are some good reasons to use Factory Body Works Race skins?
- Light
- Durable
- Perfect fit
- AMA approved
- Easy on the wallet
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Bodywork needs to have certain characteristics (myths will also be explained here):
1) Fit
Bodywork needs to fit well on a bike AND itself to make it easy to mount, and look the way it was meant to. FBW bodywork does not need ANY custom tab fabrication to fit, everything just bolts on.
2) Weight
We are racing! The lighter the better! Would you want to race against someone with lighter equipment? EVERYTHING ADDS UP!
3) "Crash-ability"
In the unfortunate event of a crash, you want your bodywork to withstand some damage and not destroy itself; you want to be able to lowside and still pick up your bike to ride it. Any more "crash-ability" than that is useless, be aware and undestand this because many use this as an excuse to charge you more for their product. In reality anything more than a lowside will most likely require much much more than just new paint, don't be fooled on this, the crash-ability requirement should be changed to LOWSIDE-ABILITY. Also the more crash-able, the more material/resin weight=heavier bodywork and $$$
4) Flexibility
Ahhh the ever so important characteristic. Ask anyone and they'll tell you flex is one of most important matters in bodywork..... Flex is important, but not dire. The main reason why bodywork needs to be flexible is for fitment. Spreading uppers around the frame or around sliders, and fitting tails over sub-frames are really the main points which require flexibility. It is important that with flexibility there is CRACK RESISTANCE. You can flex anything but will it break or crack? As you can see in the videos ans pics, we at FBW have NO issues with flex and cracking.
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